Highlights 2014

Hi you all! After quite a while I decided to pick up my blog again. What you might want to know is: where have you been and what are you doing? So I will start with telling you I’m more than halfway through my gap year. Since November 2013 I quit the national team.
May 2014 I can say that I am still motivated to climb hard and I enjoy this most during climbing outdoors.

That is why I spent the previous two months in Geyikbayiri, Turkey. It’s about 40km from Antalya at sea. What? For climbing of course! How? Working at Guesthouse Campsite JoSiTo, for free accommodation and food. Who? Just me by myself, getting that little bit more independent. At JoSiTo it was easy to meet people sharing the same mindset ‘climbing and having fun’.

Climbwise: did great on the tufa’s. Turkey is an awesome area. It feels like paradise, being surrounded by rockfaces, forest and a huge mountain. The camping lies on the lowest spot, so you feel really small looking at your surroundings. Higher up the road the view is even better. The best part is that all the climbing crags are within walking distance (5 – 10 minutes, the furthest a 20 minute walk).

In Geyikbayiri I did and tried some easier nice stuff. E.g. beautiful 6th grade lines, like the hardest 6a with 6c extension I ever did on slab (‘Sado Mazo’, Anatolia) and ‘Turkish Standard’ the most beautiful 6b+ I climbed in Turkey. Besides this I also did and tried some hard, cool stuff. At first I sucked at tufa’s (the stalactites ‘glued’ to the walls). However the longer I stayed, the better I got.

The second climbing day in Trebenna I onsighted a 6c and later -at the time- my first 7b (‘Greek gift’, Trebenna). In the following days I did my first 7b+ in 2 attempts and my first 7c flash. In the same crag I accidentally warmed up in a 7c, which made it my first 7c on sight.
The 7c which gave me the most satisfaction climbing, lies in the area known for its goat shit. The ground of Kanyon is literally covered in a thick layer of goat poo, making the air dusty of it when walked on. The route is ‘Arsenik’, a steep, bouldery overhang with a lot of pockets. I was proud of myself, because I did it on sight(!) and also just a few moments after I finally climbed a horizontal, overhanging roof, my anti-style, with a crimpy end in the sixth attempt (‘Boltlarin Efendisi’, ‘Master of the Bolts’ 7b+). And even better: the route went up, away from the lovely smell.

After this the ‘sending train’ (as Florien Sjoerdsma would say) still didn’t get off track. It brought me to a beautiful 8a+ line* also in a roof (one of my weaker points). First part is 7b+. I did that easily. Then there is a rest just before the cruxy moves begin. They consist of tiny holes and big (BIG!) moves, in which I barely reached the next hold. It took me six attempts.

*More on my first 8a+: First try it went so well that I almost got out of the roof. Every next attempt I thought I would do it, but failed miserably. So one day, about two weeks and four fails later, I decided to project the route from the very first to the very last move, making sure I could link them. After doing this I wasn’t that tired and my belayer motivated me to give it just another shot. As you can guess this was the final go: I took my time on the rest and I flew through the route.

So the train kept rolling and made me eager to keep on going. I tried a super nice 8b line, which felt possible (‘Over the Top’, a downgraded 8b+). It being almost may however, was making the sun shine hard, the weather hot and my fingers sweaty. Not the best conditions. The 8b ‘Olympos Games’, Sarkit looks really nice and also do-able. So when I come back during better conditions, I definitely have some things to work on!

In the end, I learned a lot about myself and about my passion and drives. I like to be around people and I like to travel. For now I also enjoy my job as climbing fanatic (instructor, coach, trainer, route tester & allround employee) at GRIP Nijmegen Climbing Gym. I am excited to start studying. Since a couple of days ago I am also enjoying training again, and I want to push it this and the next year with –outdoor– climbing.

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Results will show motivation

It’s been some time now since I last wrote something on my blog. So with summer vacation ahead, I thought it would be nice to tell you what I’ve been up to lately.

First of all : I graduated this year!  Hope to get the study I want, physiotherapy. If I don’t I’ll be climbing and working for the coming year. With this I will also keep on training the selection (a motivated group of kids from 12 to 18 years), which I have really enjoyed doing this year. I will guide them in training and in competitions just as my trainers had done and are doing at the moment.

During my studying for the final exams I of course did not cease to climb. With my eyes on my goal: winning the European Youth Championships this summer, I trained even harder. And somewhere in the back of my head I said to myself that this year is my year to rock.  (‘My time to shine’ sounds so tacky). I will show my motivation in my results.

For instance, in the youth boulder competitions, due to lack of junior females, but also because it’s way more challenging (than climbing female boulders) I was allowed to climb against  the junior males! This is a category with great boulderers. I didn’t say this to be nice, but because it’s the truth. The first boulder comp in Monk was during my studying time and my endurance training (for lead season). I ended up with a shared 4th place. The second boulder competition I competed in, I was getting stronger and already started with my  resistance block. I got a 2nd place.

But yesterday, finally feeling strong -after also picking up my diploma last Thursday- I became 1st ! I topped nine out of ten boulders, while nr 2 did 7. Which is also a good perfomance, knowing the difficulty of some of the boulders. Oh and shortly after the comp (needing 3 tries more, than the allowed 5 attempts) I topped the hardest boulder!  It had a steep campus to a slopery volume and an ending with some pinches. This boulder had only been done by other Dutch team member Daan Groskamp ! So well done to him too.

Because I’m still a girl I got all the points in the female junior category, so I have now placed myself to compete all alone in the Dutch Youth Boulder Championship… I think I’m going to ask permission to compete in the junior male category!  In Youth Lead there is still one competition to go in September, but by having won two competitions already I think it’s safe to say I’m placed for the Youth Lead Championship.

With the senior circuits I got myself in both national championships at the end of the year! For the Dutch Boulder I’m currently in a 6th place (having missed the first comp) and for the Dutch Lead I’m 2nd. I’ll try my hardest to upgrade these numbers to two first places!

Seniors Boulder 3 – Finals
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U Following Me?

Dear Blog Followers,

For 2013 I have made a nice start by finally getting myself an o.k. smartphone with internet. This way I can update my blogs anywhere and at any time.Another announcement is that the NKBV has a new logo:

NKBV logo

It doesn’t look like an organ anymore (I thought the old logo looked like). I believe it resembles the peaks of mountains. Pretty basic, but simplicity is the key.

As from now on you can follow me on:

Twitter: ‘@olivia_oliebol’

Instagram: ‘iclimb_’

And check out my Facebook: ‘Tabitha Buma’. Well, I’ll try to keep you updated on everything and especially my climbing and training. For now I’m having my resting period, so the coming week will consist of only two or three days of climbing, some running and some pretty hard studying. My SE-tests will be up next week, which will be as pleasant as ever.

I wish you guys a great and joyful 2013 !

2013

Hello everyone,

Time goes by fast. Before I knew it 2012 was over. With all the ups and downs, all the fun and hard times, all the good and bad stuff. What a great year it has been. In the end I can say my climbing had some major ups and downs as well. Like a mountain. I reached one of the tops in May when I climbed two 8A’s in Slovenia. Another peak were the Euro Youth Cups at the beginning of the year. Later that year I also managed to obtain a second place at the dutch boulder championship. My lower peaks were later this year at the lead nationals. I was 2nd every Promotop, but ended a disappointing 4th place at the championships.. too bad. After that I had a better, more fun competition: the Show Off. Amsterdam hosted the annual Mammut Event, which I liked a lot! Climbing with Anna Stohr and Jacob Schubert is awesome! I even beat Anna in both routes..!

Puurs

So, not a bad year. But 2013 must be even better. How?
Just climbing even harder throughout the year.
Graduating from high school with ok grades.
Buy a new smartphone to post here faster.
Go to the United States for four weeks.
Live on my own at the end of the year.
Start the right study somewhere.
Do some hard climbing routes.
Find more good friends.
Get a drivers licence.
Share more posts.
Enjoy family.
Love.

Dutch Lead Championships

It’s been a while since I have posted something on my blog. So here’s a short update. In two days the Dutch Lead Championships will take place. It will be in Mountain Network Amsterdam. While I’m not as fit as I had wished to be, I’m still looking forward to it.

Storyline Singapore

Lufthansa it is..

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My cute, little hotelroom for the coming week. Our stay was at the Nostalgia hotel.

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The day of arrival, a day of first impressions. Food!

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Yummmy..

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Day 2

Exploring Sentosa Island

 

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Later that night.. at the opening ceremony.

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The next morning.. what a venue!

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Yeah. It’s OK! And thanks Sentosa for welcoming us!

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Nice construction as well!

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Above: Teun Keusters in semi-finals.

Of course we cannot forget Mr Van der Rijst.. (picture below)

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Curious if we had even more fun? Next up are the sightseeing pictures. Enjoy!

First up: the Infinity Pool (and Hotel). On it’s right the Science Centre.

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After some nice, cold ice-cream we did some indoor “ice”-skating in the adjacent mall.

 

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And although we were not allowed to take a refreshing swim in the infinity pool itself, we were able to enjoy the immense view standing on top of the building.

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Merchant of Venice?

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Gigantic Art Tree’s.

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China-town: ‘the best place to get your souvenirs’ according to Perry, our favourite hotelperson.

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And at the end of a long, hot day, we almost always took a well-earned leap into our ‘little bit less infinite’-pool at our hotel

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And with that our once-in-a-lifetime experience has come to an end.

 

 

Looking forward to, hopefully, another amazing Worldcup Youth event in Canada next year!